Seafood in Cancale

When it comes to looking for places to fill our tummy around meal times, there is no better person to rely on than R, our friend, translator, and foodie extraordinaire. Angela and I happily left all the restaurant the entire trip picks up to her. And did we eat well!

The highlight of our food trail in France was undoubtedly in Cancale, a quaint little seaside village in Brittany which we visited at the tail end of our Champagne-Normandy trail. At Le Cancalais Restaurant, I had the most scrumptious fish, cod with its skin fried with omelette. The egg sauce and fried rice on which the slab of fish was resting on was phenomenal, and I mopped the gravy clean with baguette.

From April in France

In the morning, after we’d gamely awoken to catch the sunrise (which was unfortunately hidden in clouds), we leisurely strolled to the edge of town, where, at the corner of the jetty, we’re a half dozen stalls tightly clustered together, displaying mounds and mounds of freshly plucked oysters. We bought from the friendliest guy of the lot, who smiled and joked with us as he bustled about setting up his store. He helped us pick out and shack 27 oysters, which we greedily brought on two plastic trays to the stone steps by the pier, squatted unglamorously down, and began our slurping in earnest.

There are five different sizes of oysters, and these are further categorized into different breeds. At dinner the night before, we had the number 5 oysters (smallest, but still respectable!). For breakfast, we picked out two types of number two oysters, a dozen each, and splurged on three number one oysters, for the grand cost of 13 euros. 🙂

From April in France

They were super fresh! Juicy and briny, we slurped them down with gusto with just a dash of lemon. They weren’t in the least fishy! Those number one oysters were something special. Incredibly meaty, and reminded us oddly of abalone steamed with bak choy and oyster sauce. Its sweet finish lingered on forever.

From April in France

Our appetites were strangely whetted after the feast of 9 oysters each. R rushed us along to another round of food; she said she actually felt faint from hunger! So we trooped into a cafe, where we ordered a round of crepes and coffee each. I had the crepes with caramel, caramels being a Brittany specialty. Pretty delicious, as far as crepes go, and R assured us that they were much better than what we would find in Paris.

From April in France

Our hunger pangs were quelled after, but Angela was yearning for some langosteens (small lobsters), so we trooped to another store and bought 5 steamed ones for 6 euros. These we plucked and sucked on a bench outside our hotel, and the sweet chewy meat finally had us fully satisfied. Enough, at least, to tide us over till our next stop, cheese tasting in Livorat, a tiny town next to the famous Carmenbert.

From April in France

We were only in the town for a day, but we loved it, and I’d jump at the chance of visiting again. Brittany’s a special place – for the food, the history, and the scenery.

From April in France

Full moon over Cancale

From April in France

Sunrise over Cancale


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